Face time: is makeup for men the next big beauty trend?
看脸时代：男士化妆品是下一个美容大趋势吗？
For the last century, makeup has been mostly the preserve of just half the population. Even as society has become more feminist, and less ruled by gender binaries, women’s cosmetics use has become even more prolific, while men have continued to go au naturel, occasionally boshing on a bit of moisturiser and hoping for the best. But that may be changing, as brands from Chanel to Tom Ford launch male cosmetics lines.
在上个世纪，化妆品通常只是地球上一半人的专利。尽管社会越来越流行女权主义，也更少地受到性别二元论的主导，但女性的化妆品使用却变本加厉；而男性则继续不施粉黛，偶尔乱涂一点润肤露并期待能达到最佳效果就行了。但随着香奈儿、汤姆·福特等品牌相继推出男士化妆品系列，这种情况可能正在发生改变。
Tom Ford launched a men’s concealerand brow gel comb last year; Chanel now has a tinted foundation, a mattelip balm and four shades of eyebrow pencil under its new Boy De Chanel brand. Male cosmetics still make up less than 1% of the $465bn global beauty market, although 15% of UK men under 45 bought makeup in 2016.
汤姆·福特去年推出了男士遮瑕膏和眉胶梳，而香奈儿目前在其男士美妆新品牌 Boy De Chanel 下推出了有色粉底、哑光润唇膏和四款眉笔色号。虽然在 2016 年，45 岁以下的英国男性购买化妆品的比例为 15%，但男性化妆品在全球 4650 亿美元的美容市场中占比仍然不到 1%。
As with the boom in female beauty, the charge is being led by ordinary teenagers making videos in their bedrooms. James Charles from upstate New York was 16 when he launched his first makeup tutorial on YouTube. By the age of 18, Charles had amassed 8.5 million subscribers and become the first man to model for makeup brand CoverGirl.
与女性美妆产业的繁荣一样，在自己的卧室里制作视频的普通青少年们，是推动男性美妆产业发展的主导力量。来自纽约北部的詹姆斯·查尔斯十六岁时在 Youtube 上发表了他的第一个美妆教程。到十八岁时，查尔斯已经累计拥有 850 万订阅用户，并成为了化妆品品牌 CoverGirl 的第一位男性模特。
In the UK, the most famous male beauty vlogger is Gary Thompson, who has had campaigns with L’Oréal and Superdrug. He started wearing makeup because of bad skin, but now loves the way it makes him feel.
在英国，最有名的男性美妆视频博主是盖里·汤普森，他曾经和欧莱雅、Superdrug 有过商业合作。他是因为皮肤不好才开始化妆的，但现在他爱上了化妆带给自己的感觉。
Both Thompson and Charles are model-like, and their makeup looks are full-on and feminine: lots of contouring, bronzer and colour. Both are gay; queer culture has always appropriated elements of femininity, particularly makeup. As Thompson says, “Makeup connects with queer culture—it’s such a powerful form of expression.”
汤普森和查尔斯都很有模特范，他们画全妆并且妆面女性化，会用上大量的修容，古铜粉和色彩。他们都是同性恋；酷儿文化一般会借用女性化的元素，特别在化妆打扮上。正如汤普森所说，“美妆和酷儿文化联系在一起，这是一种强有力的表达方式。”
————— 文章来源 / 卫报
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